'Castangia' - The oldest tailor in Milan and the Milanese Buttonhole.

The Milanese buttonhole, also known as the "lavorazione a occhiello milanese" in Italian, is a distinctive and intricate style of crafting buttonholes on tailored garments. It originated in Milan, Italy, and has become a hallmark of high-quality bespoke tailoring finishes.

Milanese tailoring house 'Castangia' has a heritage just as rich; as an Italian luxury menswear brand renowned for its exquisite tailoring and high-quality garments. The company was founded in 1850 by Francesco Castangia in Cagliari, Sardinia, Italy. It is one of the oldest and most prestigious tailoring houses in Italy, with a long history of craftsmanship and dedication to traditional techniques. Though their history doesn't pre date the Milanese buttonhole; the origins of the Milanese buttonhole can be traced back to the 16th century, during the Renaissance period in Italy. Milan, being a significant center of art, culture, and fashion at the time, was at the forefront of many sartorial innovations. Tailors in Milan sought to elevate the craft of garment-making by experimenting with various techniques, and the Milanese buttonhole was one such innovation. Distinct for its elegance and complexity, it is a hand-sewn buttonhole that features small, tight stitches around the edges, creating a neater finish compared to other types of buttonholes. What sets it apart is the intricate embroidery-like detail that adorns the surrounding fabric, often resembling a tiny ladder or a series of loops. This decorative aspect enhances the aesthetic appeal of the garment and adds an element of luxury and craftsmanship.


Jacket ready for fitting


'Castangia', like many other prestigious Italian tailoring houses, is known for its expertise in creating this famous buttonhole, an intricate and decorative type of hand-sewn buttonhole that is a benchmark of fine craftsmanship. One would often see a Milanese buttonhole adorning a jacket or waistcoat lapel. As they are intricate and delicate, often sewn using high quality silk thread, they are mostly used for decorative rather than functional purposes. A straight or 'keyhole' buttonholes made up of several 'pearl' stiches are used elsewhere on a suit and better known for their durability. 

The houses longevity and continued success are a testament to its commitment to preserving the art of traditional Italian tailoring. The brand's garments are known for their durability, quality, and timeless appeal, making them sought after by those who value true craftsmanship.

As with any luxury brand, Castangia's garments often come with a higher price tag due to the exceptional craftsmanship and materials used in their production. However, for those who appreciate the art of tailoring and are looking for well-made, sophisticated, and enduring pieces, Castangia remains a benchmark of excellence in the world of menswear.

Thanks for reading and don't miss the next post on 'The Italian Cut'

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