The Tailor Nathan

The Milanese buttonhole, also known as the "lavorazione a occhiello milanese" in Italian, is a distinctive and intricate style of crafting buttonholes on tailored garments. It originated in Milan, Italy, and has become a hallmark of high-quality bespoke tailoring finishes. Milanese tailoring house 'Castangia' has a heritage just as rich; as an Italian luxury menswear brand renowned for its exquisite tailoring and high-quality garments. The company was founded in 1850 by Francesco Castangia in Cagliari, Sardinia, Italy. It is one of the oldest and most prestigious tailoring houses in Italy, with a long history of craftsmanship and dedication to traditional techniques. Though their history doesn't pre date the Milanese buttonhole; t he origins of the Milanese buttonhole can be traced back to the 16th century, during the Renaissance period in Italy. Milan, being a significant center of art, culture, and fashion at the time, was at the forefront of many sartorial inno...

Vicuña wool is one of the most luxurious and rarest fibres in the world, renowned for its softness, warmth, and lightweight properties. It comes from the Vicuña (Vicugna vicugna), a small, graceful camelid native to the high Andes of South America, primarily found in Peru, Bolivia, Chile, and Argentina. The Vicuña is a wild animal and belongs to the same family as llamas, alpacas, and guanacos. The Vicuña captured in its natural habitat. The Vicuña has a long history dating back to pre-Incan times when it was highly regarded by indigenous cultures for its fine and valuable wool. Due to its high demand, the Vicuña was heavily hunted, which eventually led to a sharp decline in their population. By the mid-20th century, the Vicuña was on the brink of extinction. In response to this crisis, efforts were made to protect and conserve the species. Governments and international organizations collaborated to establish protected areas and implement strict regulations to prevent poaching and prom...

  R. M. Williams is an iconic Australian footwear and clothing brand known for its high-quality craftsmanship and timeless designs. The brand was founded by Reginald Murray Williams in 1932 and has since become a symbol of Australian outback heritage. Reginald Murray Williams, commonly known as R. M. Williams, was born in 1908 in Belalie North, South Australia. He grew up in the Australian bush and developed a deep appreciation for the rugged and demanding environment. Williams learned leatherwork from a local saddle-maker and combined his skills with a keen understanding of the needs of stockmen and bushmen. In 1932, Williams established his eponymous company, R. M. Williams, with a vision to create durable and comfortable boots for the harsh Australian outback. The brand quickly gained a reputation for its exceptional craftsmanship and superior quality. Each pair of R. M. Williams boots was meticulously handcrafted using the finest materials and construction techniques, ensuring ...

  Leather is a versatile and durable material that has been used for centuries in various applications, including fashion, upholstery, and accessories. Different types of leather are produced from the hides or skins of animals through various tanning and treatment processes. Here are some common types of leather: Full-Grain Leather: Full-grain leather is considered the highest quality and most durable type of leather. It is made from the top layer of the hide, which retains the natural grain and imperfections. Full-grain leather develops a patina over time and is known for its strength, breathability, and rich texture. Top-Grain Leather: Top-grain leather is another popular type known for its durability and smooth appearance. It is made from the uppermost layer of the hide, with the natural grain sanded or buffed away. Top-grain leather is often more resistant to stains and offers a more uniform look compared to full-grain leather. Corrected-Grain Leather: Corrected-grain leather i...

Every tailoring 'house' around the world has its own signature style; More so traditionally perhaps. In England and The United States, these styles tend to be collective. You might hear the terms, 'English Classic', 'English Contemporary', 'New Ivy', 'Southern Style'. Italy, however, collates a whole universe of different craftsmanship styles, in one modestly sized country. Below, we'll get into the different regions and their well known and loved differing approaches to the art of bespoke tailoring.   I taly has a rich tradition of tailoring, and different regions of the country have their own unique          styles and techniques. Here's an overview of tailoring in various regions of Italy: Naples (Campania): Naples is renowned for its distinctive tailoring style known as "Neapolitan tailoring." Neapolitan jackets are characterized by soft shoulders, a lightweight construction, and a high armhole. The jackets are typically unl...

   Many are familiar with the dress code 'Black Tie', but what are the correct assumptions ?      Gentlemen should wear a dinner suit; traditionally black, with satin lapels, black trousers with a satin stripe, a formal white dress shirt, a black bow tie, black patent leather shoes, and black dress socks. A vest or cummerbund is optional and in some cases recommended. Avoid wearing colored or patterned suits, long ties, or casual shoes. Unless the event is strictly formal, this traditional view has become a little more relaxed of late. None the less, the following should be observed: Wear a dinner jacket, this can be made in velvet, linen, cotton, wool, etc but always in nightshade tones and with self or satin lapels Appropriate dress trousers in black only; with outside leg seam adorned with silk or velvet piping or ribbon, or brading. We'll cover accessories later on. Ladies have more flexibility in their attire but should still aim for elegant and sophis...

  Bespoke tailoring and made-to-measure tailoring are two distinct approaches to creating custom garments. While they share similarities in providing personalised clothing, there are notable differences between the two. Bespoke Tailoring: Individualized Pattern: In bespoke tailoring, a unique pattern is created from scratch based on the client's measurements and body shape. The pattern is hand-drafted and serves as a blueprint for the garment's construction. Extensive Fittings: Bespoke tailoring involves multiple fittings throughout the process. These fittings allow the tailor to make precise adjustments and ensure a perfect fit. The iterative nature of fittings ensures that the garment fits flawlessly. Unlimited Customization: With bespoke tailoring, clients have the freedom to choose from a wide range of design details, fabrics, and customization options. The tailor can accommodate specific style preferences and unique requests, resulting in a truly personalized garment. Hand...